Winter Skin Care

Winter is here!  What does that mean for our skin?

Skin easily becomes dehydrated with the dry heat and cold exposure.  A good moisturizer is essential, and one containing dimethicone, a barrier agent is helpfull as well.  Candesca anti wrinkle skin illuminating cream is great for this purpose.  Other things to consider are using a humidifier at home and at night to keep skin moist.  If you are hitting those slopes don’t forget the sunscreen!

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

topical botox or argireline

Topical Botox, What is it and does it work?

There has been a lot of hype about creams that are “botox in a bottle”, topical botox, or “wrinkle relax” creams. Just what are they and do they work?
Botox is an actual toxin that paralyzes the muscle that is injected into the skin and works for several months. Botox can only be injected safely in the periorbital area and forehead, since as you can imagine, you need the mucles around the mouth to smile, talk and eat.
“Topical Botox” is not actually botulinum toxin, but a different chemical, to be specific it is a peptide, a neuropeptide that is thought to work in a manner similar to botox. This peptide is called acetyl-hexapeptide 3 or argireline and it is thought to reduce facial tension, relaxing wrinkles. There are no actual clinical studies in medical journals, but studies from independant cosmetics companies have been done. According to the medical world these studies would not be considered valid, however the premise behind the peptide is a valid one. A concentration of 10% is the maximum amount that has been safely used in most studies and is tolerated quite well. I have found 8% to be just as effective with less side effects. The most common side effect that people report at higher doses is that of skin tingling or burning on application, that is transient, it goes away in a few minutes.
So will your face muscle be paralyzed like botox? No, the effect is much milder, much more gradual, and actually, much safer. And there is no needle involved!
Rachel Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

soy isoflavones and skin wrinkles

Soy Isoflavones: How do they work to improve the skin?

Animal studies have shown that soy isoflavones protect the skin against sun damage and may increase production of hyaluronic acid, a very important constituent of skin.

Another study shows that soy isoflavones will lighten age spots. Soy has been shown to reduce signs of aging when applied topically to human skin. In addition, oral supplementation has significant effects as well.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

retinoids, retin a, renova, tretinoin,and skin wrinkles

Retinoids: Retin A, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate,Tretinoin, Renova, whats the difference and how do they work?

We’ve all heard of Retin A, Renova and most know these are Vitamin A derivative prescription creams that treat wrinkles. Retin A was originally used to treat acne, but then significant anti-wrinkle effects were noticed. Now there are many documented scientific studies that prove its effectiveness. Because it can cause significant irritation, redness and peeling it is regulated by the FDA and can only be used with a prescription.

Renova is a prescription form that was developed specifically to treat wrinkles and is more moisturizing than Retin-A.

Other derivatives of vitamin A, such as Retinol were then developed, which are much milder, therefore much less effective, but with less side effects are widely used in wrinkle creams. Retinol is much less potent than tretinoin but will still work to reduce wrinkles, with the same side effects of inflammation and redness.
Retinol, or its derivatives (Retinyl Palmitate) is one of the few substances that is proven to work in treating the signs of skin aging and therefore is an important component of anti-wrinkle creams.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

matrixyl

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide or Matrixyl

This is a synthetic cosmeceutical developed by a drug company compared to retinoids (retinol, tretinoin) in terms of effectiveness but thought to cause less irritation. In vitro (cultures of cells) it has been shown to stimulate collagen and elastin production which is an important foundation of skin. There are some clinical scientific studies on people that are promising, however these have been conducted by the manufacturing drug company and not by an independent investigator.

Matrixyl is the ingredient that was originally used in Strivectin, which was developed initially to treat stretch marks but then used for wrinkles. There are some studies regarding the effectiveness of Strivectin, but these also have been done by the manufacturing company.

Overall, this is a promising substance that is being used in multiple anti-aging creams currently with what seems to be a good effect. Scientifically there needs to be more data regarding how effective it actually is, but given its minimal irritation and potential for significant effect, it is being used more and more, and is an ingredient in Candesca Skincare.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

alpha lipoic acid and skin wrinkles

Another Anti-oxidant Alpha Lipoic Acid, How it works to treat skin aging

Alpha Lipoic Acid is an anti-oxidant that had been shown to penetrate skin cell membranes and will neutralize free radicals. It has been shown to increase the effectiveness of Vitamins C and E. It may also work via exfoliation of dead skin and will reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Side effects do include skin inflammation in higher doses.

Alpha Lipoic Acid is a natural substance that is part of a biochemical cycle in cells. It is found in certain foods and is produced in our bodies.

There have been some good initial clinical studies that show a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles as well as the appearance of scars. Some significant studies in particular are mentioned in Dr Perricone’s book, “The Wrinkle Cure”. As with many of the newer promising anti-aging cosmeceuticals, more studies need to be done to document its effectiveness.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

copper peptide and skin wrinkles

Copper Peptide: What will it do for your skin?

Copper, a trace element can be combined with small protein fragments, called peptides and used topically in skin creams. Copper peptides have been proven to enhance wound healing and to stimulate production of collagen. Copper peptides may also enhance the activity of anti-oxidants. There have been some small studies regarding Copper and skin wrinkling and there has been an improvement in fine wrinkling demonstrated.

In wound healing Copper Peptides have been proven to help remodel the skin, breaking down abnormal scar tissue and replacing it with healthy collagen. In theory this benefit of copper could also be applied to treating wrinkles and damaged skin, although probably on a much less intense level.

Copper Peptides also are anti-inflammatory and treat skin irritation, which is accompanied by free radicals which cause skin damage. Therefore it is also a good anti-oxidant.

In higher concentrations Copper Peptide may be potentially harmful to the skin, so lower concentrations are recommended and are used in Dr Rachel Skincare products.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

anti inflammatory ingredients in skin care

Anti-Inflammatory Skin Care Ingredients and MMP Inhibition:

Why are anti-inflammatory ingredients important?

Inflammation is a significant cause of skin damage and wrinkling. This is due to the free radicals that are produced and the inflammatory substances which can harm the skin. (mentioned more in our article about anti-oxidants) Many things will cause skin inflammation: sun exposure, a dry environment, toxins in the air and environment , and even the actual anti-aging cosmeceuticals themselves. Therefore, targeting inflammation is an important part of treating skin aging and wrinkles.

Another way that targeting inflammation works against aging is to lower the levels of matrix metalloproteinases. These are enzymes that break down the skin matrix, which contributes to wrinkles and aging. Studies have shown that these enzymes are increased in the elderly, causing breakdown of skin and more wrinkles.

Boswellia serrata is a natural herbal extract that has anti-inflammatory activity and may inhibit the metalloproteinases also. Reservatol, found in grapes, is a very strong anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory and is now being used in skin care products. Butchers Broom, another natural herbal extract inhibits elastase, another metalloproteinase enzyme and may have significant anti-aging activity

Rachel  Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

DMAE

DMAE, the new “face lift” in a jar?

 

What is DMAE and how does it work?
DMAE is another word for dimethylaminoethanol.
DMAE is a precurser molecule to choline,a constituent of neurotransmitter molecules. It is a naturally occuring substance found in fish and is currently available as a dietary supplement or in skin creams in topical form. The theory is that DMAE will increase acetylcholine levels in the skin, a neurotransmitter and will improve skin tone. It has been proven to increase acetylcholine levels in the brain when taken orally.
Studies regarding oral supplementation of DMAE shows that it may improve memory, cognitive function and brain aging.
There are some studies regarding topical DMAE and the results are promising that it may cause some skin tightening and firming. Skin sagging is a major part of aging of the skin and is due to a breakdown of collagen and loss of tone of the skin. DMAE may work to reduce this. There are not a lot of studies yet that prove this but there are a lot of testimonials that it works.
DMAE is a component of many of the newer anti-aging and skin creams on the market today and is incorporated into Candesca, Anti-Wrinkle and Skin illuminating cream by Candesca Skincare.

Rachel Sullivan MD
http://candescaskincream.com

Herbal Skin Care Ingredients

 

Description of Herbal Ingredients used in Candesca Skin Care Products and how they work.

Date Palm Kernel Extract:
Anti-oxidant. Topical application to eye area showed 27% reduction in total surface of wrinkles and 60% visual improvement. Rich in Phytohormones.
Parsley Extract:
Contains vitamin C, pro Vitamin V and chlorophyll, increases circulation to the skin, antioxidant properties.
Kudzu root extract: (Pueraria lobata)
Antioxidant and contains isoflavones simlar to soy extract, also proven antibacterial. Similar to soy will decrease signs of skin aging due to isoflavones when applied topically.
Rosa Centifolia extract:
Aqueous extract of the cabbage rose, which contains tannins, which have a toning effect on skin, emolient (moisturizing) ingredients, as well as anti-viral and anti-bacterial.
Horse chestnut seed extract aesculus hippocastanium:
Contains aescin reduces inflammation and will increase tone in venous circulation.
Rose Hip Extract: Rosa rubiginosa seed oil
Contains vitamin C and bioflavenoids, an emolient (moisturizer), high in GLA which will reduce the signs of aging
Laminara Digitata Extract:
Brown Algae extract, contains essential amino acids important for skin elasticity, as well as ursolic acid forming a protective barrier for skin.
Eucalyptus leaf oil:
Antiinflammatory, contains tannins for skin toning and flavenoids.
Evening Primrose Oil:
Gamma linolenic acid prostaglandin suppression- reduction in inflammation
Rosemary:
Anti-inflammatory and improves circulation topically.
Grape Seed Oil Extract:
Proanthocyanidin strengthens capillaries, anti-oxidant, Resveratol, anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects
Thyme:
Topical anti-inflammatory proven in studies on mice ears. Ursolic and oleanic acid as well as glycosides present.
Another study confirmed this in mice.
Sage Extract:
Topical shown to be quite effective anti-inflammatory. (topical sage-rhubarb combination as effective in treating herpes labialis as Zovirax)
Comfrey:
Has Allantion which stimulates reproduction in cells, also anti-inflammatories.
Butcher’s Broom (Ruscus Aculeatus) Inhibits elastase, proven beneficial effects in venous insufficiency. No published topical studies on skin yet, but theoretical.
Ginseng Extract
Contains fatty acids, vitamin B, anti-inflammatory components, beneficial to skin cells.
Horsetail Extract
Contains Silicilic Acid, which is stimulating to the skin and also strengthens connective tissue.
Sage Dalmation Extract
Contains anti-microbials such as borneal, antioxidants such as flavenoids and phenolic acids.
Macadamia Nut Oil
R ich in unsaturated fatty acids, vitamin E and A and nourishing to the skin.
Green Tea:
Compounds in Green Tea, called polyphenols eliminate free radicals and rejuvenate and reactivate skin cells.
Lemongrass Oil:
Rich in vitamin C and Anti-oxidants.
Carotseed Oil:
Contains Carotene, Vitamin A, revitalizes and tones the skin and exhibits anti-aging properties.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://www.candescaskincream.com