matrixyl

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide or Matrixyl

This is a synthetic cosmeceutical developed by a drug company compared to retinoids (retinol, tretinoin) in terms of effectiveness but thought to cause less irritation. In vitro (cultures of cells) it has been shown to stimulate collagen and elastin production which is an important foundation of skin. There are some clinical scientific studies on people that are promising, however these have been conducted by the manufacturing drug company and not by an independent investigator.

Matrixyl is the ingredient that was originally used in Strivectin, which was developed initially to treat stretch marks but then used for wrinkles. There are some studies regarding the effectiveness of Strivectin, but these also have been done by the manufacturing company.

Overall, this is a promising substance that is being used in multiple anti-aging creams currently with what seems to be a good effect. Scientifically there needs to be more data regarding how effective it actually is, but given its minimal irritation and potential for significant effect, it is being used more and more, and is an ingredient in Candesca Skincare.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

alpha lipoic acid and skin wrinkles

Another Anti-oxidant Alpha Lipoic Acid, How it works to treat skin aging

Alpha Lipoic Acid is an anti-oxidant that had been shown to penetrate skin cell membranes and will neutralize free radicals. It has been shown to increase the effectiveness of Vitamins C and E. It may also work via exfoliation of dead skin and will reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Side effects do include skin inflammation in higher doses.

Alpha Lipoic Acid is a natural substance that is part of a biochemical cycle in cells. It is found in certain foods and is produced in our bodies.

There have been some good initial clinical studies that show a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles as well as the appearance of scars. Some significant studies in particular are mentioned in Dr Perricone’s book, “The Wrinkle Cure”. As with many of the newer promising anti-aging cosmeceuticals, more studies need to be done to document its effectiveness.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

copper peptide and skin wrinkles

Copper Peptide: What will it do for your skin?

Copper, a trace element can be combined with small protein fragments, called peptides and used topically in skin creams. Copper peptides have been proven to enhance wound healing and to stimulate production of collagen. Copper peptides may also enhance the activity of anti-oxidants. There have been some small studies regarding Copper and skin wrinkling and there has been an improvement in fine wrinkling demonstrated.

In wound healing Copper Peptides have been proven to help remodel the skin, breaking down abnormal scar tissue and replacing it with healthy collagen. In theory this benefit of copper could also be applied to treating wrinkles and damaged skin, although probably on a much less intense level.

Copper Peptides also are anti-inflammatory and treat skin irritation, which is accompanied by free radicals which cause skin damage. Therefore it is also a good anti-oxidant.

In higher concentrations Copper Peptide may be potentially harmful to the skin, so lower concentrations are recommended and are used in Dr Rachel Skincare products.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

anti inflammatory ingredients in skin care

Anti-Inflammatory Skin Care Ingredients and MMP Inhibition:

Why are anti-inflammatory ingredients important?

Inflammation is a significant cause of skin damage and wrinkling. This is due to the free radicals that are produced and the inflammatory substances which can harm the skin. (mentioned more in our article about anti-oxidants) Many things will cause skin inflammation: sun exposure, a dry environment, toxins in the air and environment , and even the actual anti-aging cosmeceuticals themselves. Therefore, targeting inflammation is an important part of treating skin aging and wrinkles.

Another way that targeting inflammation works against aging is to lower the levels of matrix metalloproteinases. These are enzymes that break down the skin matrix, which contributes to wrinkles and aging. Studies have shown that these enzymes are increased in the elderly, causing breakdown of skin and more wrinkles.

Boswellia serrata is a natural herbal extract that has anti-inflammatory activity and may inhibit the metalloproteinases also. Reservatol, found in grapes, is a very strong anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory and is now being used in skin care products. Butchers Broom, another natural herbal extract inhibits elastase, another metalloproteinase enzyme and may have significant anti-aging activity

Rachel  Sullivan MD

http://candescaskincream.com

DMAE

DMAE, the new “face lift” in a jar?

 

What is DMAE and how does it work?
DMAE is another word for dimethylaminoethanol.
DMAE is a precurser molecule to choline,a constituent of neurotransmitter molecules. It is a naturally occuring substance found in fish and is currently available as a dietary supplement or in skin creams in topical form. The theory is that DMAE will increase acetylcholine levels in the skin, a neurotransmitter and will improve skin tone. It has been proven to increase acetylcholine levels in the brain when taken orally.
Studies regarding oral supplementation of DMAE shows that it may improve memory, cognitive function and brain aging.
There are some studies regarding topical DMAE and the results are promising that it may cause some skin tightening and firming. Skin sagging is a major part of aging of the skin and is due to a breakdown of collagen and loss of tone of the skin. DMAE may work to reduce this. There are not a lot of studies yet that prove this but there are a lot of testimonials that it works.
DMAE is a component of many of the newer anti-aging and skin creams on the market today and is incorporated into Candesca, Anti-Wrinkle and Skin illuminating cream by Candesca Skincare.

Rachel Sullivan MD
http://candescaskincream.com

Herbal Skin Care Ingredients

 

Description of Herbal Ingredients used in Candesca Skin Care Products and how they work.

Date Palm Kernel Extract:
Anti-oxidant. Topical application to eye area showed 27% reduction in total surface of wrinkles and 60% visual improvement. Rich in Phytohormones.
Parsley Extract:
Contains vitamin C, pro Vitamin V and chlorophyll, increases circulation to the skin, antioxidant properties.
Kudzu root extract: (Pueraria lobata)
Antioxidant and contains isoflavones simlar to soy extract, also proven antibacterial. Similar to soy will decrease signs of skin aging due to isoflavones when applied topically.
Rosa Centifolia extract:
Aqueous extract of the cabbage rose, which contains tannins, which have a toning effect on skin, emolient (moisturizing) ingredients, as well as anti-viral and anti-bacterial.
Horse chestnut seed extract aesculus hippocastanium:
Contains aescin reduces inflammation and will increase tone in venous circulation.
Rose Hip Extract: Rosa rubiginosa seed oil
Contains vitamin C and bioflavenoids, an emolient (moisturizer), high in GLA which will reduce the signs of aging
Laminara Digitata Extract:
Brown Algae extract, contains essential amino acids important for skin elasticity, as well as ursolic acid forming a protective barrier for skin.
Eucalyptus leaf oil:
Antiinflammatory, contains tannins for skin toning and flavenoids.
Evening Primrose Oil:
Gamma linolenic acid prostaglandin suppression- reduction in inflammation
Rosemary:
Anti-inflammatory and improves circulation topically.
Grape Seed Oil Extract:
Proanthocyanidin strengthens capillaries, anti-oxidant, Resveratol, anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects
Thyme:
Topical anti-inflammatory proven in studies on mice ears. Ursolic and oleanic acid as well as glycosides present.
Another study confirmed this in mice.
Sage Extract:
Topical shown to be quite effective anti-inflammatory. (topical sage-rhubarb combination as effective in treating herpes labialis as Zovirax)
Comfrey:
Has Allantion which stimulates reproduction in cells, also anti-inflammatories.
Butcher’s Broom (Ruscus Aculeatus) Inhibits elastase, proven beneficial effects in venous insufficiency. No published topical studies on skin yet, but theoretical.
Ginseng Extract
Contains fatty acids, vitamin B, anti-inflammatory components, beneficial to skin cells.
Horsetail Extract
Contains Silicilic Acid, which is stimulating to the skin and also strengthens connective tissue.
Sage Dalmation Extract
Contains anti-microbials such as borneal, antioxidants such as flavenoids and phenolic acids.
Macadamia Nut Oil
R ich in unsaturated fatty acids, vitamin E and A and nourishing to the skin.
Green Tea:
Compounds in Green Tea, called polyphenols eliminate free radicals and rejuvenate and reactivate skin cells.
Lemongrass Oil:
Rich in vitamin C and Anti-oxidants.
Carotseed Oil:
Contains Carotene, Vitamin A, revitalizes and tones the skin and exhibits anti-aging properties.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://www.candescaskincream.com

Description of some cosmeceuticals

Description of Anti Aging Ingredients: Cosmeceuticals

CoQ10:
This is a powerfull anti-oxidant that has been clinically studied in relation to skin. A reduction in wrinkle depth has been shown in studies. The anti-oxidant and free-radical scavenger effects work to combat the signs of aging.
Argireline: (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3)
A new synthesized hexapeptide, theoretically should work to relax muscles in the face and it is a very popular new cosmeceutical. It is thought to stimulate the extracellular matrix similar to vitamin C. In a clinical study, 75% of people observed a decrease of wrinkles. Touted as the new “botox”.
Alpha-Lipoic Acid
Strongly anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant. 5% cream has been studied and showed decreased skin roughness and improvement of photoaged skin.
Soy:
Soy is rich in isoflavones. Topical soy isoflavones has been shown to increase skin elasticity and decrease the signs of photo-aging.
Copper Peptide
Clinical trials of a topical cream reported improvement in fine lines and wrinkles and increases in skin density and thickness. Has been shown to stimulate fibroblast production of new collagen and aids in dermal remodeling.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C acts as an antioxidant aids in stabilizing collagen. When applied topically, vitamin C can reduce fine lines and wrinkles and may lessen the severity of sunburns.
Vitamin E
When applied topically, vitamin E has been thought to improve moisturization, softness and smoothness and also provide modest photoprotection
Matrixyl: Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline/oligopeptide:
More potent and effective than vitamin C, dipalmitoyl hydroxproline stimulates remodeling and contraction of collagen fibers by promoting interaction between cells and the matrix. It also protects elastic fibers against enzymatic breakdown and actively scavenges free radicals. Thought to also tighten skin. Also called Matrixyl, thought to be the new “Retin A”
Algae Extract:
Extract of Fucus Vesiculosus, type of seaweed 1% showed decrease in skin thickness and improved elasticity. Red microalgae has anti-inflammatory properties. Numerous benefical effects on the skin have been demonstrated.
DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol)
Studies showing anti-inflammatory, documented increase in skin firmness with possible improvement in underlying facial muscle tone.
Analog of B vitamin choline and as a precurser to acetylcholine.
Study with 3% facial gel applied with improvement of forehead lines , periorbital fine wrinkles, improving lip shape and fullness and overall appearance.
Another study showed increased skin firmness.
Hyaluronic Acid:
A very good moisturizer and part of the extracellular matix.
Ursolic Acid
Ursolic Acid incorporated into liposomes increases ceramide and collagen content of cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts. This is a laboratory study and there are no human studies yet, but it looks very promising. This is a component of thyme extract.
Idabenone
Works similar to COQ10, an antioxidant, theoretically may work well to reduce signs of photo-aging. Although it has not been studied, it is used in many new skin care products and thought to be very effective.
Caviar Extract Nourishing ingredients and anti-oxidants are thought to be benificial to the skin and treat signs of aging.
Retinyl Palmitate
Proven anti-wrinkle treatment that has been used for years in skin creams. May be irritating in high doses.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://www.candescaskincream.com

Herbal extracts and the skin

Herbal Extracts- How they work to improve the skin

Many skin creams contain herbal extracts. Many of these extracts have been used for centuries and have certain “folk tale” wisdom associated with them. With the advent of modern science, however, we have been able to actually break down the extract into components and see how they effect the skin. Many of the extracts contain individual components that have been proven to have beneficial effects. For example, there have been some recent studies regarding the benefits of ursolic acid on the skin, and this is a major ingredient of Thyme Extract.
Now that we know what is in these extracts and how they work, we can find perfect all natural ingredients for skin creams.
What is interesting is that many of the herbal extracts that have been used as oral supplements are now being used topically in skin cream products. The rationale being, that if they are good for us by mouth, why wouldn’t they be good for the skin? A few examples of these are green tea, reservatrol, algae extract etc.
Examples of the functions of the herbal extracts used in skin creams are as anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial (anti-bacterial, anti-viral), stimulating, tightening, moisturizing and toning.  For specifics as to how each herbal extract works see the ingredients section.
Rachel Sullivan MD

http://www.candescaskincream.com

How anti-oxidants help the skin: Idabenone, coenzyme q10, vitamin c, vitamin e, green tea extract and more..

How anti-oxidants help the skin: Idebenone, Coenzyme Q10, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Green Tea Extract and more

Many of the ingredients in anti-aging creams and in Dr Rachel Skincare include anti-oxidants. Just how do those help the skin?
Our bodies, including our skin, produce free radicals, these are harmful to the skin and body. Anti-oxidants will neutralize these free radicals, reducing damage. So although the anti-oxidants will not reverse damage that has already been done, they can prevent further damage. In particular, the skin is an area where many free radicals are produced secondary to environmental exposure.
Some of the anti-oxidants that are used in skin care products and are taken as supplements also include idebenone and coenzyme Q10. Other anti-oxidants are Vitamin A, Vitamin B-6, Vitamin B-12, Vitamins C and E and Beta Carotene, Green Tea, Grape Seed Extract.

Vitamin C or Ascorbic Acid is a proven anti-wrinkle treatment that works as both a “free radical scavenger” and anti-oxidant, and also stimulates collagen production. There are several recent valid medical studies that show that topical vitamin C will produce improvement in skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles, although these studies were done with a very high concentration, such as 10%. This can be irritating to the skin. Vitamin C also will oxidize fairly quickly and will develop a yellowish tint when it occurs and loose its effectiveness. I have found the most effective products are those that contain natural vitamin C in a herbal extract, such as Lime Extract, which is used in many of the Dr Rachel Skincare creams.

Vitamin E is another anti-oxidant which has been shown in animal studies to reduce wrinkling. There are a few promising studies with human skin. Many dermatologists and plastic surgeons will also use it to accelerate wound healing and prevent scar formation. Unfortunately, it is often poorly absorbed by the skin
and may cause some irritation. In low doses however, it is usually tolerated well.

Idebenone is a name that has been at the forefront of the skin cream market lately and there is quite a bit of hype about it. It is being used in Prevage, one of the newer anti-aging creams on the market. It is a synthetic varient of Coenzyme Q10, which is an anti-oxidant component of the fatty membranes which surround cells. It is a free radical scavenger and anti-oxidant. There are studies on human brain cells which show Idebenone’s ability to enhance brain structure and function. Topically there have been some small studies showing that it may reduce wrinkles and improve skin appearance.
Coenzyme Q10 is another anti-oxidant also used in skincare products. It was originally made as an oral supplement and thought to be a powerful free radical scavenger. Topically it has been studied in peridontitis and has anti-inflammatory characteristics. There are also some studies regarding its effectiveness in improving signs of skin aging. There are two good clinical studies that show a reduction of fine lines around the eyes. There are no significant side effects to topical use which is very important.

Green Tea Extract is another anti-oxidant that has been shown in some studies to be effective in reducing signs of skin aging. Animal studies have proven that topical extracts will protect against skin cancer and prevent sun damage. There are minimal side effects to topical use and this is an important fact to consider. The effects of green tea are thought to be due to the flavenoid phytochemicals called polyphenols. Human studies have shown a reduction in sun damage and a blocking of UV rays, and there are definite anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. One potential drawback is that the anti-oxiodants in green tea become oxidized when exposed to air and therefore may loose some of its activity.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://www.candescaskincream.com

cosmeceuticals.. what are they?

Cosmeceuticals, What Are They?

We’ve heard a lot about them lately. The term cosmeceutical was first used by Albert Kligman, the University of Pennsylvania researcher credited with discovering the effectiveness of Retin-A, a vitamin A, in smoothing aging skins. Now this term is used broadly to describe a spectrum of topical ingredients that are potentially benificial to the skin, specifically beneficial in treating skin photo-aging.

Please see the ingredients section for specific information about each cosmeceutical.

Given the fact there are so many, which cosmeceutical is best for me? Since most of them work in different ways, I would reccommend a combination of cosmeceticals that have been proven to be safe and effective, this will give you the maximal results. This can be found in Dr Rachel Skincare.

Rachel Sullivan MD

http://www.candescaskincream.com